A truly wonderful American Art Deco creation by the Kohn jewellery firm, circa 1930s. Handmade in platinum and 14 karat yellow gold, this plaque brooch is set with 78 single and early brilliant cut diamonds of G/H colour and VS-SI clarity, totalling 2.12 carat. To the centre of the pin is a rather large princess cut aquamarine weighing 8.80 carats and has been classed as 'bright mid blue eye clean with some light facet wear'. The gemologist who has viewed this piece notes that this central aquamarine is likely a later replacement, which leaves one wondering if it formerly contained a large sapphire or even a diamond. Despite this central stone not being original to the piece it is certainly sympathetic to the brooch, with aquamarines and diamonds regularly seen together in Art Deco jewellery. To the rear of the pin there is a 14 karat yellow gold pin with roller style catch which is working well and is secure. For over 100 years, Henry Kohn & Sons was a high-quality jewellery institution in Hartford, Connecticut. Henry Kohn was born in Bohemia, Austria, in 1839 and came to America in 1865. Henry settled in Hartford, Connecticut, and started his small jewellery business. Kohn's eponymous company was a retail and wholesale diamond and precious gemstone establishment that enjoyed much success. An 1886 article from the Hartford Courant stated that Kohn "is everywhere recognised as a gentleman of superior business attainments and thoroughly affable ways and manners". This piece is such a lovely example of Art Deco design and by a highly regarded jeweller, it would be a beautiful addition to a black evening dress or even attached to a piece of velvet ribbon and worn as a choker.
Marked - simply marked 'KOHN' but acid tests as platinum and 14 karat gold
Measures - 4.5cm W x 2.1cm H
Total diamond weight - 2.12 carat
Total weight of piece - 12.11 grams
Independent appraisal values this piece at $24,000